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BLANKETS & BLANKETING

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MEASURING FOR A BLANKET BEGINNING AT CENTER OF CHEST (A), GO AROUND WIDEST PART OF THE HORSE IN A HORIZONTAL LINE, FINISH AT EDGE OF TAIL (B). (This allows for a little shrinkage) THIS MEASUREMENT, IN INCHES, IS ROUGHLY THE SIZE OF BLANKET YOU NEED * Most blankets are made in two-inch increments, though many from England and Europe jump by three-inches. * Blankets from different manufacturers have different fits, and the fit may change according to the type of blanket, for example, turn-outs tend to fit higher up the neck to help keep out water and wind - thus the neck is smaller. * Blankets with cotton in them will likely shrink somewhat, even when washed correctly - allow for this when buying them.
MY HORSE IS AN ARABIAN, WITH A WIDE CHEST AND BIG SHOULDERS. HES GOT A VERY SHORT BACK, THOUGH, SO BLANKETS NEVER SEEM TO FIT - THEY ARE EITHER TOO SMALL AROUND THE NECK, OR WAY TOO LONG IN THE BODY. This is a really common problem - as is the reverse; a (usually Thoroughbred) horse who is smaller in the chest and barrel and longer in the body. The approach is the same in both cases - you have to get the best possible fit in front and do what you can with the length! The fit in the neck, chest, shoulder and wither are critical to your horses comfort. (And even his soundness!) Blankets that are too tight, or too large, will rub, bind, and/or slip, resulting in a really irritated horse, or a happy horse who has managed to destroy his coverings! Blankets that are a little long may get dirtier, and you will have to be extra careful in adjusting leg straps if there are any, but they shouldnt cause any harm. Rugs that are too short may expose a few inches of Dobbins rump to the elements, but again, it probably makes no difference to him! First: keep in mind that blankets from different manufacturers dont fit the same, so try several before compromising too much. (As long as your horse is clean and dry, you should be able to "try-before-you-buy") Secondly, some tack shops, including ours, can quite easily customize one or more of their lines. It is often no problem to make a sheet with the neck and shoulder an "80", but the length only a 76". Finally, a tack or blanket repair person can shorten a blanket as long as the front-end fits; making the neck smaller is a bit more complicated, but can also be satisfactory. I'VE JUST BOUGHT A NEW HORSE, AND NEED TO KNOW WHAT BLANKETS HE SHOULD HAVE THIS WINTER. IT SEEMS LIKE EVERY HORSE IN THE STABLE I BOARD AT HAS ABOUT 10 DIFFERENT COVERINGS! There are 100 answers to this question, depending on the horse's type, living arrangements, workload, and the climate. Here's an example; a Thoroughbred-cross, in Ontario, being schooled in an arena 3 days a week, going on a hack one day a week. He's fairly easy to keep weight on, is turned out almost every day for a few hours, and will be trace-clipped. Here's what I would suggest:
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IVE NOTICED THAT MOST OF THE NEWER BLANKETS IN STORES HAVE WASHING INSTRUCTIONS ON THEM, BUT I HAVE QUITE A FEW THAT DONT. ARE THERE ANY GUIDELINES FOR CLEANING DIFFERENT TYPES? Always check the label on your blanket before washing it or having it cleaned the following are general guidelines only. Take care with the detergent used some can handle heavy-duty cleaners, most require gentler soaps. Cotton, Poly/Cotton, Polar Fleece, or Nylon Sheets - can usually be washed in a regular machine in cold water on the gentle cycle, and hung to dry; or dry cleaned. Nylon Blankets with Fiberfill - because the lining can bunch up in a top-loading washer, these blankets should be done in a front-loading commercial washing machine, in cold water, and hung to dry. Some may be dry-cleaned check the label. Nylon Blankets with Thinsulate - as with the fiberfilled blankets, these must be done in a front-loading machine. They should not be dry-cleaned. Melton or Wool Coolers and ¼ Sheets - some of the above blends can be carefully washed in cold water on the gentle cycle with Woolite (or similar) detergent, then hung to dry; but generally it is safer to have them dry-cleaned. Waterproof/breathable Fabrics - strong detergents and/or dry-cleaning destroys the waterproof membrane; therefore these sheets must be washed with gentle soap (or, better still, using a detergent made for these fabrics) on a gentle cycle in cold water and hung to dry. The lined versions are done the same way in the larger, front-loading machines. As dirt also damages the water-resistant properties of these blankets (and with horses, dirt is impossible to avoid), any waterprrof/breathable blanket or sheet will lose it's waterproof-ness over time; they can be rejuvenated by treating them with a product like Scotchgaurd, or something used to reproof nylon tents and clothing. (Available at sporting goods stores and hardware stores). Canvas or Heavy Nylon Turnouts - these are virtually impossible to wash in a machine Brush, then vacuum the linings; hang the blanket over a fence and hose and scrub off the surfaces. |
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