Sandridge QandA ~ Bits and Bitting

BITS AND BITTING

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CROSS-COUNTRY CONTROL ON A BIG YOUNG HORSE

I have a 4 year old Belgian/Morgan in training for eventing. Right now I am using a 6 inch loose ring snaffle (about 18 mm thick) which seems to be fine for his dressage. In the beginning I used a similar snaffle bit for his hunter work and was doing great until he bullied me after jumping by diving on his forehand and bucking. Being part draft , he has a tendency to "tune me out" at times.

My trainer has suggested a "Mullen mouthed Pelham" bit (with curb chain) for his hunter work and cross country. I think it's using two reins that bothers me the most although my horse is doing great with this particular bit. I don't like using two reins and fear that 1. I'll have to move to a longer shank or something more severe in the future which I want to prevent and 2. I am afraid this particular bit will eventually ruin our excellent dressage experience.

I am riding and training three days per week when the weather permits and this gelding has a wonderful work ethic...he learns quickly so last weekend I detached the curb chain for our hunter class and only used the snaffle reins; He was well behaved and attentive during his lesson.

Question: I am thinking about just using a 20mm Mullen Mouth eggbutt snaffle instead of using the Pelham. This horse weighs 1500lbs at 16 hands.

Sounds like your horse is a nice guy, but as you say, he sometimes tunes you out – and with his size you need to prevent his getting carried away. My initial feeling is a kimberwick might be a good solution for you, probably a jointed Uxeter model (it’s the one with a choice of two slots on each ring for the rein). Mullen mouth bits tend to make a horse a little bit ‘dead’ in his mouth, and seem to encourage a horse’s head and neck down; more on to the forehand. On the other hand, the leverage you get combined with the curb chain action get a horse’s attention better than a snaffle, and you get some of this benefit with a kimberwick, while still using only one rein, and it’s not what I would call a severe or punishing bit for most horses. You increase the severity by putting the rein on the lower slot on the cheek, and/or tightening the curb chain. If this does not give you quite enough control, you can always go back to your Pelham and use a pair of converters (a short strap that fastens to the snaffle and curb rings of the bit to which you attach only one rein). Using converters does decrease the severity, so it is a compromise. Many eventers go cross-country in this arrangement. Other possible solutions include a Waterford mouthpiece which horse tend not to want to lean on; or some variety of elevator (Pessoa/Dutch Gag/showjumping) bit, which encourage a horse to raise his neck. I would not expect much success with a 20mm mullenmouth eggbutt - I think your horse would have a nice, comfortable place to lean on!

DOUBLE BITS FOR A SENSITIVE HORSE

I'm looking for a curb and bridoon for my 3rd level dressage horse to start in a double bridle. He has a very soft mouth, is a Thoroughbred. The curb bits I have for my retired PSG horse seem too thick for this horse. I would love to find a happy mouth curb/bridoon combination; haven't seen these anywhere. I found a Nathe curb, but the Nathe bit is too flexible and does not meet USDF approval for showing. I would consider a metal bit if I could find one with short shanks and not such a thick mouthpiece. Any suggestions?

My best suggestion would probably be the HO Weymouth from Sprenger. It is pictured on our website under ‘Around the Shop’, Bit Department, Herm Sprenger bits. It has a thinner mouthpiece (16mm) with good tongue room, but not a port, and the shanks are quite short. The FC Curb from Sprenger is also a good choice with a slightly thicker mouthpiece (19 mm). Paired with a KK bridoon, your horse should be very comfortable.

FITTING DOUBLE DOUBLE BITS

The bit I am looking for will be used as a bridoon which will be paired up with a 5" stainless steel weymouth bit which is quite thick, consequently my trainer wants a 14 mm mouthpiece on the bridoon. It is my understanding that the bridoon should be .25" larger than the weymouth and as a 5" weymouth is very common why is it so difficult to find a 5.25"?

Usually the bridoon is a little wider than the curb, but this is because the horse’s mouth is normally narrower where the curb rests. So what you want to do is fit your bridoon correctly (as a snaffle; perhaps slightly higher in the mouth) and the curb is fit below it. It is important that the bridoon not be too big, especially when using a plain jointed one, as the joint can touch the curb mouthpiece and bother the roof of the mouth (especially on a horse with a smaller mouth or thicker tongue). So, if your horse normally takes a 5” snaffle with a single joint, I would go with a 5” bridoon and then determine if the curb needed to be smaller – not the other way around. Often the two bits are the same size – it depends on the horse’s mouth conformation. It is more important that each bit fits correctly on its own rather than working off a formula.

BIT THICKNESS

I understand that a thicker bit is mild, but other than that, how do I decide how thick a bit I need? What is a thick, what is thin?

I would describe a 15mm or less mouthpiece as ‘thin’; 16 – 19mm as ‘medium’, and over 20mm as ‘thick’.

It is a common misconception that a ‘thicker’ bit is always milder because the weight, pressure, and effect is spread over a larger area of the horse’s mouth. In fact, using a bit that is too thick for a particular horse may be very uncomfortable for him and create problems, even if it is the correct style.

What bit thickness you use will depend on several factors:

1) The size and conformation of the horse’s mouth – a small mouth, thick lips and/or tongue, and/or a low palate will all reduce the room the horse has in his mouth for the bit. In general, Thoroughbred-type horses can usually hold a thicker bit more comfortably than an Arabian, many Quarter Horses, and many Warmbloods.

2) How sensitive to the bit the horse is – a newly-backed horse, or a very well-schooled horse, will likely be more sensitive to the bit than an older or less well-trained one, so for those animals something thicker (within a range suitable for the particular horse) may be milder.

3) The style of bit(s) – a fat single-jointed bit is the hardest type to ‘find room for’. A mullen mouth (straight or curved unjointed mouthpiece) does not usually cause any discomfort, even when quite thick. A bit with two joints - French Link or KK follows the contour of the jaw and tongue better than a single joint, so is less likely to irritate a horse with less room in his mouth. The bits in a double bridle are often fairly thin as the horse is accommodating two in his mouth at once.

There is a good reason why there are so many bit thicknesses manufactured, and it often happens that a horse reacts badly to a bit simply because the thickness isn’t right – the factors influencing your choice of bit include the style of bit (it’s action and suitability for what you are doing with the horse); the type of metal (or other material) used in the mouthpiece; the width of the mouthpiece, and it’s thickness.

NO RIGHT BEND

My husband bought me a 6 year old 1/2 Thoroughbred and 1/2 Morgan who never got any basic training at all. My coach and I have been trying to get him to relax at the jowls, collect himself and gain some flexibility to the right for the past few months. He is strongly one sided and asymmetrical to the left. It is bad enough that he cannot pick up the canter on the right lead at all ! I am riding him with an elevator bit with the reins attached at the big loop so it feels like a loose ring snaffle. I don't think the bit is working well because he refuses to collect himself and resists by lifting his head up and to left. I tried a full cheek snaffle with worse results. What kind of bit do you suggest I use on him ? My shoulders, arms and hands are about to give up !

Sounds like this horse needs to go back to basics. The elevator bit you are using has a definite lifting effect and one that many trainers choose to try and straighten a horse – not what you are after!

I’m sure you can appreciate that it is hard to ‘train’ long-distance, but I have three suggestions:

First, get an acupuncturist or physiotherapist (I’m a bit wary of chiropractors) to examine your horse – it is quite possible there is a physical component to your horse’s one-sidedness, and these people can make a big difference quite quickly. I bought a 6-yr-old Quarter Horse for my daughter who sounds just like your horse, and in one acupuncture treatment he was able to canter easily on both leads.

Second, have his teeth checked if you haven’t already. Examine his mouth to see if he has a thick tongue or low palate as well – many horses have these minor problems which can have a huge influence on what bit they are comfortable in and responsive to.

Third, I would go back to a plain snaffle (my choice would be a loosering with a three-part KK or French mouthpiece). If he is hard to control at the trot or canter, do your work in walk until he turns both ways easily, then add faster gaits. You must be able to bend laterally before you can collect him, and it will take as long as it takes. Some exercises that may help include putting poles or cones on the ground and weaving in and out of them. Make sure when you are leading him you turn to the right more than the left. With him in his stall, ask him to circle you to the right. Don’t overdo work to the right – his muscles need to stretch and he will need lots of repetition with frequent breaks.

BITS FOR YOUNG HORSES

I have a Morgan mare turning two this year and I am hoping to get her used to a bit and bridle this summer, but when I look through catalogues and on the internet, I am totally overwhelmed at the options out there. I've been doing some reading to find out how the different bits work, but I'm still confused. I'm leaning toward a full cheek snaffle, only because I've heard that is a good one, but for starting a young horse, what would be the best option? Any advice you can provide, would be greatly appreciated.

Bit selection for starting a young horse would depend on their type and conformation, just as it would for an older horse. A Thoroughbred-type horse with thin lips and tongue will normally be happy in a thicker bit, and for initial mouthing and lungeing their sensitivity makes a rubber or plastic (like a Happy Mouth) bit a good choice, usually in a simple straight or mullennmouth loosering style. Once riding begins, I would probably switch to a metal D-cheek or fullcheek with a 3-part mouthpiece – a French-link or KK or something similar. I find some sort of cheek helps the horse get the idea of steering a little quicker, the three-piece mouthpiece follows the contour of the horse’s mouth well, and sometimes a rubber or plastic bit allows the horse to lean on the bit and/or chew it too much. The same principles apply with other breeds – but Quarter Horses, Arabs, and many warmbloods have thick lips and tongues, making a thick bit uncomfortable. In these cases I would go with a thinner mouthpiece, probably metal right from the start, but in a three-piece mouthpiece. You have to expect that a young horse will be heavy in your hands as they try to get their balance; it is important to keep them comfortable while they learn, but you must still have enough bit for control.

FRENCH LINKS & DR.BRISTOLS

I HAVE AN ARABIAN MARE ON WHOM I WAS FIRST USING A THICK EGGBUTT, BUT IT WAS A BIT THICK FOR HER MOUTH (EVEN THOUGH SHE DOESN'T HAVE THE TYPICAL NARROW DISHY FACE AND 'TEACUP' MUZZLE), SO NOW I USE A DR. BRISTOL EGGBUTT, WHICH IS MUCH BETTER. I REALIZE THE MIDDLE PART IS WIDER THAN ON A FRENCH LINK - WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN HOW THESE TWO BITS FIT AND WORK? ALSO, WHAT DO YOU THINK ABOUT THE VARIOUS METALS FOR BITS?

A Dr. Bristol is a bit stronger than a French link or a 'KK'-type mouthpiece. The middle link is a flat plate that lays on the tongue, but when the reins are pulled, the edge of the plate lies at an angle to the tongue and can make the bit fairly strong. The French link has completely rounded edges and a different shape, so the only effect it has is top make the bit lie more comfortably in the horse's mouth and avoid the 'nutcracker' action of an single-jointed snaffle when the reins are used. Same with the KK models. Without seeing your horse, I would guess a 15 - 18 mm thick French link or KK would be your best bets. As for metal, stainless steel is fine if your horse is happy and producing some foam. German silver has some copper in it which horses apparently like the taste of, so that encourages 'chewing' on the bit. Pure copper mouthpieces are fairly soft, so you need to keep an eye on the condition of the mouthpiece. Aurigan is a new metal which takes things one step further by having a high percentage of copper in a metal which is really durable. It can be very helpful on a dry-mouthed horse.

(left) Loosering French Link (right) Eggbutt Dr. Bristol

'KK' Eggbutt Snaffle

ABOUT KIMBERWICKS

I JUST GOT TALKED INTO TRYING A KIMBERWICK. I DON'T KNOW MUCH ABOUT IT - WHAT IS IT'S PURPOSE? I AM NOT SURE HOW TO PUT IT ON THE BRIDLE. I THINK THE SMALL HORIZONTAL OVAL GOES ON THE TOP, AND THAT THE TWO SLOTS ON THE RING ARE FOR THE BRIDLE AND THE REINS - IS THIS RIGHT?

(left) Correct fit of a kimberwick (right) Uxeter Kimberwick

MY SON'S PONY GETS VERY HIGH-HEADED AND STRONG WHEN JUMPING AND DOING CROSS-COUNTRY WORK; HE'S FINE IN A FENCH-LINK SNAFFLE ON THE FLAT, BUT THROWS HIS HEAD UP IN A PELHAM OR YANKS HIS HEAD DOWN AND PULLS.

Is the Tom Thumb Pelham jointed or not? We often find that single joint bits contribute to head tossing and overly-high head carriage – the horse doesn’t like the joint touching the roof of the mouth. This isn’t a problem with double-jointed bits like the French link and the KK-type mouthpieces that wrap around the jaw rather than acting as a nutcracker..

For this situation I would consider an unjointed kimberwick. It can be either straight or with a low port (the bump in the middle). They tend to encourage a horse to lower their neck, and with a curb chain (adjust it loosely to start), should give your son better control, while only having one rein to worry about. A flash/figure 8 or drop noseband may be helpful if the pony is opening his mouth at the same time.

HACKAMORES FOR SENSITIVE MOUTHS

MARJOLAINE ASKED ABOUT USING A HACKAMORE ON HER ARABIAN PLEASURE HORSE, WHO GETS UPSET WITH ANY TYPE OF BIT IN HER MOUTH –

As long as you’re not planning to compete, a hackamore can be, at least temporarily, the answer to your mare’s bit aversion. A Jumping Hackamore is the mildest form, requiring a pretty sensible horse! The next step up, and probably the most practical for the average horse, is the English Hackamore, which has short metal shanks and a flat leather noseband and curb strap or chain. After that you get in various models with longer shanks and thinner nosebands which can be pretty powerful as there can be a great deal of leverage involved.

English Hackamore hackamore.jpg (2995 bytes) noseband.jpg (2017 bytes) Jumping Hackamore

I would suggest that if you would like to be able to ride your horse in a bit eventually, you can put a well-fitting snaffle bit on a simple headstall under the hackamore. Only attach a set of reins to the hackamore at first, letting her learn that the bit isn’t going to hurt her. Gradually you should be able to add reins to the bit as well, to enable you to start training with it as well.

I assume you have had her mouth and teeth thoroughly checked to ensure that a dental problem isn’t the source of her discomfort.

The severity of a hackamore is also influenced by by how it is fitted:
1) the higher on the nose (without interfering with the cheekbones) it is placed, the milder it's action;
2) how tight the curb chain or strap is (tighter curb= stronger effect), and
3) type of curb used - material and width are important. A wide, soft leather curb strap will be more gentle than a narrower single chain, and twisted chains or wire curbs have no place in correct riding and training.

You may need to experiment a bit (in a closed, safe area) to play with the adjustment to find the balance where you have control without causing discomfort to the horse.

FITTING DOUBLE BRIDLE BITS

I RIDE SADDLESEAT ON MY ARABIAN AND HE DOES NOT LIKE THE DOUBLE BRIDLE. HE IS MUCH MORE COMFORTABLE IN A JOINTED PELHAM. WE HAD HIS TEETH CHECKED AND THEY ARE FINE. COULD YOU TELL ME HOW THE BITS SHOULD FIT IN HIS MOUTH CORRECTLY? I HAVE VERY GENTLE HANDS AND I THINK THAT I MAY NOT HAVE IT ADJUSTED CORRECTLY. COULD YOU HELP??

In a double bridle, the snaffle, or bridoon, should fit slightly higher in the mouth than a regular snaffle; the curb fits slightly lower than a regular snaffle, with the curb chain lying flat in between. The snaffle should not be so high that it's uncomfortable, or able to touch the back teeth, the curb should not be so low it can touch the front teeth. Ideally, the bridoon and curb do not interfere with one another. Make sure the bits are not too thick for your horse's mouth - many Arabians have slightly fleshy lips and thick-ish tongues, and therefore have less room in their mouths to accommodate two bits - choose thinner ones that will be more comfortable. Experimenting with the height and width of the curb’s port can also help you find what fits his mouth most comfortably. Also, trying a different style of bridoon may help - a French link, a KK, or even a mullenmouth (unjointed) bridoon may make him more at ease.

SINGLE-REIN BITS FOR A STRONG PONY

MY SON IS A TIMID RIDER AND NEEDS A LITTLE STRONGER BIT WHEN HE RIDES HIS SLIGHTLY BULL-HEADED PONY. I THINK HE NEEDS THE ADDED LEVERAGE OF A CURB, BUT I DON'T WANT A SEVERE BIT. THE PONY RIDES BEST (FOR ME) WITH A DOUBLE JOINTED SNAFFLE (WITH ROLLER - 4 3/4"). IS THERE ANY SUCH THING AS A FRENCH LINK KIMBERWICK OR SOMETHING COMPARABLE? DO YOU THINK A FRENCH LINK PELHAM WITH A CONVERTER STRAP WOULD WORK? THE PONY HAS A LOW PALATE AND DOESN'T TOLERATE A SINGLE JOINTED SNAFFLE.

You have a tricky problem, which you are already aware of. The only French-link kimberwick I've come across is a German Silver Herm Sprenger (at $220.00 CDN), but it has a pretty thick mouthpiece (18 mm?). I've seen them as well with a little copper half-moon link, but that might hit his palate, too. If money isn't an issue, one of the Myler bits would probably do the trick, as they are thin and you can vary the mouthpiece so much. Another option is to try one of those 3-ring bits (called Showjumping/Pessoa, etc), WITH a curb strap attached. (You would use a western strap or chain because of the position of the top ring). You can get a medium-thick French mouthpiece (as well as a lot of others), and alter the leverage using different rings for the reins and varying the tightness of the curb. The French-link pelham is a good idea - used with converters it mimics a kimberwick.

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